|
Tip
the flour in a heap on the table. The
old oak table, legacy of Nonna Calzino, smoothed to a brilliant lustre by all
the years of daily use. Not too
much flour. Not too little. Just the right amount. Fine flour milled from durum wheat by
Papa Grazzi at Mascali. Sprinkle
in some sea salt, a good measure. Add
some fresh eggs and some extra egg yolks, sufficient for the amount of flour
and also some good olive oil and a very little cold water.
Using
your fingers mix the liquids into the flour, combining your ingredients until
a smooth paste is formed. The
eggs may feel slimy to the touch but this is natural.
Knead well using the heels of the hands in a forwards, downward
movement.
Knead
just until the arms begin to ache and the small bead of sweat starts to trace
its way down the spine from somewhere between the shoulder blades to the cleft
between the buttocks. This, of course, in winter; in summer the sweat pours
down the face and neck, dampening the clothes and making droplets on the table
and the flagstone floor.
When
the dough is smooth and elastic, brush it with a little oil, cover it with a
damp cloth, and leave it to rest, for it too is fatigued.
While you are waiting for your dough to relax you can leaf through the
pages of a magazine, observing this season’s latest fashions, or gaze from
the window at young Maria flirting with the postman on the streetcorner below.
Look at Fredo riding by on his bicycle, or at the pack of stray dogs
escaping from the dog catcher, and at life in general passing you by.
Then
you may begin the rolling. Dust
the table lightly with flour and divide your dough into eight equal pieces.
Taking one piece, begin rolling by moving the rolling pin in a motion
away from you, pressing evenly to create a rectangular shape.
Continue thus until your sheet of pasta is long and thin and about the
thickness of the blade of a knife. The
knife that slit Bartollomeo’s throat. Slicing
through his beautiful young flesh like a coltello through lard.
Cut
the sheet in half horizontally and hang it over a pole to dry for five
minutes. Repeat with the
remaining pieces of dough to make sixteen sheets.
Slice carefully the length of each sheet forming the thinnest strips
you can. Again let these dry on
the pole for another five minutes. Here
you have your spaghetti, which, with a delicious sauce of ripe tomatoes,
basil, sleek eggplant and ricotta you will eat for lunch, when office workers,
acrobats and slaughtermen return home for the siesta and for a few brief hours
the restless city sleeps.
Following
the murder of Bartollomeo, I made pasta night and day. I retreated into the kitchen, in the same way that some women
retreat into convents; as Pasquala Tredici did after her sweetheart, Roberto,
was gored to death by a bull.
I
had always loved my food: in those dark days it was all that could give me
comfort. I did not emerge from my
self-imposed exile in la cucina for a long time.
I assuaged my grief by cooking, and cooking, and cooking some more.
At
that time I was still living with my family on the farm in the Alcantara
valley beneath the citadel of Castiglione, in the far eastern side of the
island of Sicily, near the slopes of the great volcano.
The
valley of the Alcantara is an area famous for its fruitfulness. Its olives are more succulent, its oranges juicier, its pigs
porkier than any other region. The
abundance of our land is reflected in our people, who, as a general rule are
wholesome, hearty, and strong.
The
virility of our men and the fecundity of our women have also been noted;
families tend to be large here, and the urge to mate is strong among both
humans and animals.
By
a strange phenomenon multiple births are as common among Alcantara women as
they are among sows; we give birth to many twins, triplets, even quadruplets,
and identical little faces fill the classrooms in the local school.
We are so accustomed to seeing duplicates and triplicates of farmhands,
housewives and goatherds that they fail even to draw notice, except amongst
strangers. But few strangers come
here.
In
our lush valley, they say the fire in the loins of the inhabitants draws flame
from the smoldering mountain that dominates our skyline. It casts its spell over the lives brewing in its shadow,
where for millions of years it has ejaculated its own life force, clothing its
slopes in rich black lava.
|